Perennials, Annuals, and Bulbs

Right now Spring may seem a long way off, and not really on your mind. Remember the feeling you got as you went into your garden last Spring, and there it was... the first new growth of the new year...

With a little planting effort now, you will speed the timing of that first new growth by as much as a month.

During the fall months, after soil temperature drops below 60°F., the bulbs of spring flowering tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, Siberian squill, dwarf irises, Anemone, and crocus should be planted. Select healthy, disease free bulbs. Add bone meal or bulb fertilizer into the planting hole, as you prepare the soil.

Most spring flowering bulbs should be in the ground by the early part of this month, with the exception of Tulips which may be planted up until early November.

• Gladiolas, Dahlias and other tender bulbs should be dug before the ground freezes, after the tops are browned by frost, and stored in a cool, dark area. Allow to dry, clean off soil, and store in peat moss or vermiculite in a cool location free from frost. Dahlia and Begonia tubers should be stored in a box of slightly moist peat moss. Gladiola corms can be stored in a paper bag without additional packing.
  
  
• Be sure that new plantings and perennials which were divided and moved last month are kept watered if there has been insufficient rainfall.
  
  
• There is still time to set out winter pansies, flowering Kale, flowering Cabbage, and fall mums. Keep a little color in the garden for as long as possible.
  
  
• Geraniums, begonias, fuchsias, and other tender plants should be brought indoors or moved to a coldframe before the first frost.
  
  
• Watch your thermometer on colder nights. A windless, cold, clear night usually means a killing frost.... You can keep your Chrysanthemums and Asters blooming for quite a while longer if you take the time to provide a little frost protection for them. A small, simple frame covered with cheesecloth or an old bed sheet placed over your plants on frosty nights, can add a month or more of garden blooms. (Don't forget to remove the cover as soon as the danger has passed!)
  
  
• Mulching fall planted perennials will keep the soil warmer longer, allowing root growth to continue, however, the plants do need time to harden off for winter. Spread a thin layer of mulch after fall planting, and then add a thicker layer once the ground has frozen.
  
  
• Don't forget to collect and save seeds of wildflowers to sow next spring.
  
  
• According to Ohio State researchers, cold water can destroy the ability of root cells to take in water and nutrients. Water below 50F was found to reduce leaf size, cause leaf drop, and eventually contribute to the death of potted plants. Those requiring frequent watering, such as spathiphyllum and ficus, are especially prone to damage and should not be watered with water below 65F. Other tests show that warmer water (about 90F) actually stimulates growth.
  
  
• One of the most popular of the early spring flowers is the perennial Polyanthus Primrose (Primula x polyantha). Plant some this fall, and you will have a rainbow of colors when the weather breaks. Other plants that can planted early include Calendula, Iceland poppy, pansy, stock and sweet pea.
  
  
• Small imperfections, such as nicks and loose skin, should not affect the quality of most bulbs. Store bulbs in a cool area (below 65F) if unable to plant immediately.
  
  
• To achieve a more-relaxed, "natural" look, plant scattered clusters of early flowering bulbs, such as crocus, throughout your lawn. But, don't mow the area until the foliage dies the next summer.
  
  
• Ferns can be planted or transplanted in fall.
  
  
• Calathea, a popular foliage plant, flourishes in low light and over a wide temperature range indoors. It may be called 'the second-chance plant' because if you forget to care for it for a few weeks, just water well, trim off the damaged areas, and watch for new shoots to emerge in about a month.
  
  
• Be sure to clean up from around your perennial flowers, such as rose and peony. If left on the ground, leaves and stems can harbor diseases and provide convenient places for pests to spend the winter.
  
  
• Hyacinths have an oil in the bulbs that may make some people itch. Wear gloves when handling these bulbs or wash your hands with cool water and soap immediately after planting.
  
  
• It's not unusual for some spring-flowering bulbs to send up a few leaves in the late fall or early winter. The bulbs will remain safe over the winter and will still produce flowers next spring.
  
  
• Move and divide crowded perennials. Arrange for swaps with friends and neighbors.
  
  
• A variegated variety of Vinca minor with its evergreen foliage will provide colorful greenery in window boxes during the winter.
  
  
• Cut down stems and foliage of herbaceous perennials when the leaves begin to brown.
  
  
• If you have a sunny area to naturalize with small, flowering annuals, sow seeds of sweet alyssum or Johnny jump-ups. They will come up this fall or early spring and bloom extra early next spring. Both are very hardy and self seed readily to maintain the natural area.
  
  
• Add mulch to your perennial border. A 1-inch layer of weed-free straw or chopped leaves will help conserve soil moisture, protect the root system, and reduce plant loss by soil heaving during the winter.
  
  
• Allow a few of the seeds of your favorite delphinium and hollyhock to ripen on their stalks. When mature, plant the seeds at once in a garden bed where they will grow into husky little plants that survive the winter well.
  
  
• A lily bulb is never dormant; it must be planted as soon as it is received. Have beds prepared ahead of time.
  
  
• As you clean out the flower beds, mark the spots where late starting perennials will come up next spring to avoid damaging them while working in the beds.