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May
Trees, Shrubs, and Groundcovers
- When choosing a tree or shrub, it is important to consider the
characteristics of all cultivars, keeping in mind the climate and
cultural conditions of your site. Some cultivars may be resistant
to diseases that are not a problem in your location, while others
may show heat tolerance, pest resistance, soil tolerance, or
other similar characteristics that better fit your situation.
Choosing a plant appropriate for your location must be more than
an aesthetic decision.
- Prune rhododendrons immediately after flowering. Old clusters
should be snapped off when partly dry, but remove with care in
order not to decrease or prevent bloom next year.
- When planting a new shade trees, consider whether it is messy
or neat in appearance, weak- or strong-wooded, and long- or
short-lived. Resist the temptation to plant a fast-growing, weak
tree for quick shade.
- Some trees that are messy and weak-wooded include silver maple
hybrid poplar, mimosa, weeping willow, black cherry, and Eastern
cottonwood. Better choices are Chinese elm, Japanese zelkova, pin
oak, red maple, river birch, tulip poplar, and willow oak.
- Rough or careless handling of balled-and-burlapped trees can
break the soil ball, damaging or breaking off most of the roots,
and result in the death of the tree. Never pick up a B&B; tree by
its trunk; instead, carry it by the root ball, being gentle when
putting it down.
- If cotton burlap was used to wrap B&B; tree roots, it does not
need to be removed. Just untie and roll it down from the trunk
until it does not stick above the soil line. If a synthetic
material wrapped the roots, remove it completely if possible, or
at least turn it back to expose the sides of the ball and cut it
off or push it to the bottom of the hole. If the species of tree
you are planting is one that grows a taproot, remove all the
synthetic material or the root will not be able to grow properly.
- If an old tree shows signs of advanced rotting, remove it
before it becomes a safety hazard.
- Red and silver maples, willows, poplars, and elms can clog
septic lines with their roots. Plant these species well away from
water lines and sewers.
- Poison ivy is dangerous all year round. You can get an
irritation from the leaves, roots, berries, and even smoke from
burning the vines. Learn to know the leaves so you can guard
against it. If you think you may have come in contact with it,
wash immediately with soap and water and remove any clothes that
may have the oil on them. Prevention is the best medicine for
this ailment.
- Most evergreens have many roots near the soil surface. Avoid
deep cultivation that might wound roots.
- When planting shrubs on a steep slope, be sure to mulch or use
an erosion control netting if grasses or ground covers are not
already present. Digging planting holes and watering the new
plants will result in erosion problems on bare soil.
- Plant ground covers under shade trees that don't allow enough
sunlight to sustain grass. Periwinkle, English ivy, and liriope
are a few ground cover plants that grow well in shade.
- If you are building a home on a wooded lot, save young,
vigorous trees. They will adapt to changes in their environment
better than older trees. Trees that once grew in shade and are
suddenly exposed to increased sunlight, wider temperature
fluctuations, and drying winds may not survive.
- Regularly water newly planted trees and shrubs during the first
year or two after planting to help establish a good root system.
They need at least 1 inch of water each week. It is better to
water deeply once a week than to water lightly every day; the
former practice encourages deep, drought-resistant roots while
the latter practice encourages surface roots that may suffer
during dry spells. Mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds.
- Prune out winter-killed wood on trees and shrubs by cutting
back to green wood after new growth begins.
- Watering with soaker hoses or drip irrigation will reduce the
spread of black spot in roses.
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"So many seeds -- so little time."
--Author unknown
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