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Trees, Shrubs, and Groundcovers
Ground Covers: Their Establishment and Maintenance
How to plant and maintain ground covers to take advantage of
their low-maintenance features.
Ground covers are low-growing plants, usually less than 12 inches tall,
that spread to form dense mats which bind and hold the soil in place.
Many also have a season of effective bloom.
Turfgrass is the most common ground cover. However, sites that are less
suitable for turfgrass, such as slopes, steep banks, and shaded areas,
can often grow other ground covers successfully.
A well-established ground cover generally requires less maintenance than
the typical turfgrass lawn. Ground covers are not totally maintenance-free,
nor will they always tolerate conditions that will not support a turf.
When deciding which ground cover to plant, consider the plant's height,
spread, blooming period, seasonal foliage color, texture, drought tolerance,
and whether it is deciduous or evergreen. The planting site also will affect
your choice because each ground cover has specific requirements.
See Garden Simply's,
Selecting a Ground Cover,
for a list and description of many cultivars.
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A soil test* will indicate the site's fertility
and pH. Most ground covers prefer a slightly acid to neutral soil
(between pH 6.0 and 7.0).
If the soil is low in nitrogen, incorporate enough 1:2:0 or 1:2:1
fertilizer to apply 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square
feet, or about 30 to 40 pounds of 5-10-5 per 1,000 square feet. Applying
highly available phosphorus as a starter fertilizer is beneficial for root
initiation and plant establishment.
Many ground covers develop crown rot in heavy clay soils that don't drain
well. Adding coarse organic matter, such as composted or aged manure, peat
moss, or compost can improve the drainage of heavy clay soils and increase
the water-holding capacity of light sandy soils. Roto-till or spade the
soil to an 8-inch depth and thoroughly incorporate the organic matter at a
rate of two to three bushels per 100 square feet.
Soil preparation can cause serious erosion on steep slopes. Working the
soil across the slopes in 12- to 24-inch wide bands alternated with
undisturbed soil will hep reduce erosion. Mulching the slope with a fiber
mat will further reduce erosion while conserving moisture and reducing
weed competition.
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Ground covers should be planted in the spring or fall. Containerized
stock can be planted anytime during the growing season if proper planting
and maintenance procedures are followed.
The number of plants needed depends on the spacing of the individual
plants their rate of growth and how fast you want the space to fill in.
You may want to densely plant a small, highly visible area for rapid fill,
but a large area may require more sparse planting, with several years being
allowed for covering the site.
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To estimate the number of plants needed, first determine the size of the
site in square feet. Considering the average width of the species and the
spacing of individual plants, use Table I to calculate the
approximate number of plants you will need.
Table I. Planting space required per number of plants.
Space between 64 plants 100 plants
plants will cover will cover
(inches) (sq. ft.) (sq. ft.)
4 7 11
6 16 25
8 28 44
10 45 70
12 64 100
15 100 156
18 144 225
24 256 400
Ground covers can be purchased as rooted cuttings, potted plants, plant
clumps, or balled and burlapped. The form of the plants will influence plant
spacing and planting season. For example, rooted cuttings, the most common
form, are usually planted closer than containerized plants.
When planting rooted cuttings, don't allow them to dry out. Plant them at
the proper depth and firm the soil around the roots to ensure good soil-root
contact. Watering small sections as you plant will prevent the roots from
drying out.
Ground covers can be planted in either straight or staggered rows. Staggered
rows help reduce erosion on slopes by retarding run-off.
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Water new plantings thoroughly and regularly until the roots become
established. Once established, water as needed for the ground cover
you've selected--each type has different requirements--but apply at least
1 inch of water at each watering to moisten the entire root zone. Applying
less water results in a shallow root system which makes the planting more
susceptible to drought injury.
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Control weeds to enable the newly planted ground cover to form a dense mat.
When properly established, ground covers can successfully compete with
weeds. Hand weeding is effective, but can be time consuming. Mulching is a
practical way to reduce weeds. Nonaggressive annual flowers can be used to
fill in spaces in a new planting. They help shade out weeds but do not
inhibit the spreading growth of the ground cover. Be sure to provide enough
moisture for both plant types so competition is not a problem.
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Pruning will stimulate new growth on most ground covers by causing buds
to break from the base or along the plant's stem. At planting time, prune
back the growth by one half (more on trailing plants such as ivy or
periwinkle) to promote branching.
Annual pruning will control ground covers and keep them attractive.
Generally, the best time to prune is just after new growth has begun
in the spring. A mower set very high, nylon cord trimmer, or hand
clippers can be used. Rejuvenation and size control are important for
plants such as wintercreeper, St. John's-wort and carpet bugle.
Cutting back after flowering can induce repeat flowering in sun rose,
alyssum and cottage pinks. Pruning also can help control diseases by
removing infected foliage.
Remember, Prevention is worth a pound of cure!
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Mulching serves many purposes in a ground cover planting. Two to four
inches of mulch around the plants helps control weeds, maintains a more
constant soil temperature, conserves soil moisture and reduces erosion on
slopes. Compost, leaf mold, well-rotted manure, bark or wood chips, peat
moss, and sawdust can be used as mulches. However, mulches that have not
completely decomposed, such as fresh sawdust, will temporarily draw nitrogen
from the soil. An application of additional nitrogen will make up for
this excess use.
Mulching helps to protect plants from winter injury resulting from uneven
soil temperatures and soil heaving. Most evergreen ground covers need
protection from winter desiccation (drying). Apply mulch loosely after
the ground has frozen and remove it in the spring before growth begins.
Weed-free straw, peat moss and pine tree boughs can be used for winter mulch.
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The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature.
To nurture a garden is to feed not just on the body, but the soul.
Share the botanical bliss of gardeners through the ages, who have cultivated philosophies
to apply to their own – and our own - lives: Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are.
- Alfred Austin, 1835-1913
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