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How to Grow Humus Fungi
Humus-inhabiting fungi can be
cultivated using many different methods. Their basic requirement
is an abundant supply of humus (compost, well rotted manure etc.),
which should be as free of competing micro-organisms as possible
and must have an adequate moisture content. Check moisture by
squeezing the compost: if a film of liquid appears on the surface,
and is then reabsorbed when pressure is released, the compost
is sufficiently moist. If not, water is necessary.
Method 1: On Compost Heaps
You can inoculate garden compost
heaps with spawn. The composting process must be complete or the
spawn will be killed by the combination of high temperatures and
ammonia produced by the fermentation process. The temperature
of the heap must be no higher than 25degreesC.
Remove the top 10cm or so from
the top of the heap and mix spawn into it. About 150-200g of spawn
will inoculate a heap with a surface area of 1 metre square. Replace
the spawn/compost mix and firm it down to ensure that the spawn
makes good contact with the rest of the compost. Put a layer of
leaves about 5cm thick on top of the heap. After a few months
the fungus will have colonised the heap and mushrooms will appear
in the autumn.
Method 2: In Trenches
Dig a trench roughly 10cm deep
and 40cm wide. Fill the trench with a layer of straw or well-rotted
manure about 30-40cms thick (20-30cms above ground level) water
as necessary and cover with a plastic sheet. Allow the straw to
become soft, which may take a few weeks, depending on weather
conditions. Peel back the plastic sheet and mix in the spawn at
the same rate as described in the first method (150-200g per square
metre of surface). Moisten the substrate if it seems at all dry.
When the white fungal threads, known as the mycelium, have colonised
most of the surface, remove the plastic and add a covering layer
of soil or leaves about 5cm thick.
Method 3: In Plastic Sacks
It is possible to produce your
own mushroom grow bags, which can be stood out in various positions
in the garden, or in sheds and outbuildings. For the best results
use a sterile substrate, which can easily be prepared from clean
straw using the following method:
Cut clean, non-mouldy straw
in 3-5cm lengths, about 1kg per bag is sufficient. Add a small
quantity of ground limestone or chalk, about one tablespoon per
kg, and put the straw into a cloth bag (a pillow case is good)
or a fine wire mesh basket. Immerse the bag in hot water (65degreesC)
for an hour to sterilise the straw. Ensure that work surfaces
are clean. to prevent contamination, ideally they should be disinfected
with bleach. (Other ways to sterilise straw: make a solution of
builders' lime (calcium hydroxide) in water, 10g per 5 litres
water, and immerse the straw in this for a couple of hours. Allow
the straw to drain before adding the spawn. Household bleach can
also be used the same way, 25ml of bleach to 5 litres water.)
Allow the straw to cool to room temperature, then put it into
a clean bin liner or mixing bowl. Add a large cupful of spawn
(250-300ml) and mix it thoroughly. Put the inoculated straw into
a clean plastic bag. A garbage bag is good. Pierce the bag about
50 times with a nail or knife sterilised with bleach or by passing
it through a gas flame. Put the bag in a moist place at a temperature
of about 20degreesC and leave to incubate for 2 to 3 weeks. To
prevent drying out, it may be sensible to cover the bag with a
plastic sheet, loosely placed to allow air flow. After incubation,
make a series of slashes at the top of the bag and place it in
a cool moist position, making sure it does not dry out. It will
fruit in a short while.
Method 4: On the Lawn
Use the Plastic Sack method
above to establish fungus on football-sized blocks of straw. For
the best results these should be fully colonised. Bury the blocks
intact, just under the surface of the grass. As the block decays,
the lawn will subside a little and it will be necessary to fill
the hole and reseed if appropriate.
Method 5: In Mulches
You can simply mix spawn into
mulches applied around fruit and vegetables. If conditions are
favourable this will produce a useful crop of mushrooms for several
years. It is also worth putting the compost from exhausted bags
or heaps down as a mulch. The mycelium often regrows and fruits.
Wood-inhabiting fungi can be
cultivated using two main methods: on logs, or in bags of sawdust.
The aim with both methods is to provide the fungus with a suitable
food source and to adjust environmental conditions to favour rapid
growth and fruiting. Sawdust bags are quicker to fruit than logs,
but they have a shorter productive life.
The two main wood fungi are
Oyster Mushroom and Shiitake (pron. Shii-tak'ay) which
have been grown successfully for many decades now using these
methods. Illustrated here are fruiting shiitake logs and sawdust
bags.
Method 1: On Logs
Fell trees in late autumn or
winter, between leaf fall and bud break in spring. At this time,
sugar content of the wood is at its highest and the fungus uses
this sugar to make rapid growth.
Select logs 10-25cm in diameter
and cut them into pieces 50-80cm long. Try to ensure that the
logs are free from disease and that the bark is damaged as little
as possible, to prevent the entry of contaminant fungi. Store
logs off the ground in a moist shady place, or cover them with
shade netting, old carpets etc. to prevent excessive loss of moisture.
You can store logs for a couple of months before inoculating,
or inoculate soon after felling. If the wood has dried out appreciably
before inoculation, it will need to be soaked for a day or two.
Different fungi prefer different trees. Suitable woods for various
species are:
Oyster mushrooms - Beech, Oak,
Sycamore, Birh (most hardwood species are suitable). Pleurotus
colombinus grows on conifer softwoods such as Scots Pine,
Spruce and Larch.
Shiitake - grows best on Oak,
although other hardwoods may be used, such as Beech, Alder and
Sweet Chestnut.
Disc Method
Cut a disc of wood about 3cm thick
from one end of the log. Moisten the cut surfaces of the log and
disc and place the spawn on the cut surface. Drive a nail through
the disc and nail the disc to the log to hold the spawn in place.
Wedge Method
Cut wedges from opposite sides of the
log every 20cm, each wedge being up to 1/3 of the log's diameter
(more will weaken the log too much). Moisten surfaces and insert
spawn before hammering the wedges back in (they may need nailing).
Drill Hole Method
With a wide diameter drill bit (at
least 1cm) make a series of holes in the log, about 20cm between
each hole. Fill the holes with spawn and seal them. If using dowel
plugs, select a bit that fits snugly, and make sure the hole is
deep enough for the whole dowel.
With all these methods it is
a good idea to seal the inoculation sites to prevent contamination,
and to stop spore drying out, and to keep mice and slugs from
eating it. The best method is to apply moulten wax to the inoculation
sites. Cheese wax (if you can get it) is best because it has a
low melting point so is less likely to damage the spawn (if you
order our dowel kits, we include cheese wax and a special dauber).
You can also seal with adhesive tape.
After the logs have been inoculated,
the fungus begins to spread through and colonise the wood. This
is known as the spawn run, and it takes place under warm, humid
conditions. We offer the following suggestions:
Dig a pit
in the ground big enough to take the
logs standing vertically. Moisten the base of the pit and scatter
a small amount of spawn on it. Stack the logs closely together
and cover them with polythene sheeting or old fertiliser sacks.
Stack the logs in a shady spot and cover them with
damp carpets, polythene sheeting etc.
Put the logs into fertiliser
sacks, moisten, seal and place in a warm shed, garage or barn.
As the fungus develops, it generates
heat, and it is a good idea to trap this heat by insulating the
logs with straw or old carpets placed on top of the polythene
sheeting. The incubation period varies from species to species.
Oyster mushrooms take 6 months, Shiitake often takes longer, a
year or more. Take care that the logs do not dry out too much,
but don't allow them to become too wet, either, because that encourages
the growth of contaminant fungi. Trial and error will allow you
to develop a picture of each species' requirements. The basic
aim is to keep the bark dry and wood itself adequately moist.
Check the logs every few weeks. The spawn run is complete when
both ends of the log show large patches of white fungal growth,
the mass of fine fibres being known as mycelium. Shiitake mycelium
often turns a cocoa brown colour on contact with the air. Logs
covered with blue, black or yellow mycelium should be discarded
because they have become infected with contaminant fungi which
could spread to other logs.
Set logs out in their fruiting
positions when the spawn run is complete. Select a spot in light
shade with moist soil and place the logs so that about one third
of their length is buried in the ground, with enough room between
the logs to make it easy to harvest. Fruiting is initiated by
the onset of autumn rains and mushrooms are produced in flushes;
that is, numerous mushrooms appear all at one time. Depending
on the type of wood used and the size of the log, mushrooms will
appear for 3 to 5 years more. Logs may also be stood in pots of
moist sand or in water in sheds and greenhouses and this may help
to reduce slug damage.
Method 2: On Sawdust
It is easy to produce your own
mushroom growing bags. The bags can be stood outside in various
shady places in the garden, or in cellars, outbuildings etc. The
sawdust must be prepared by disinfecting to get rid of competing
fungi. Several methods are available:
Heat Treatment
Stand the sawdust for an hour in water
at 65degreesC. Small quantities can be sterilised in a pressure
cooker.
Lime Water
Make a solution of calcium hydroxide
and water at the ratio of approximately 60g to 10 litres and use
this to moisten the sawdust. Allow to soak for 2 hours, then drained
for several hours before inoculating.
Make a dilute solution of household bleach by
adding 25ml of bleach to 5 litres of water. Use as for lime water.
Inoculate with about 50-100g
of spawn for 1kg moist sawdust. Add the spawn to the sawdust after
it has drained sufficiently (or has properly cooled if you use
heat treatment) and mix it thoroughly. Put the inoculated sawdust
into clean plastic bags which have been pierced 50 times with
a knife, knitting needle or nail sterilised with bleach or by
passing through a flame. Tie the bag.
Incubate the bags in a warm
place (approx. 20degreesC). The sawdust will appear white when
it is fully colonized, although Shiitake mycelium may turn a cocoa
brown colour. Incubation time varies according to species and
temperature. Oyster mushrooms take a couple of weeks under optimum
conditions; Shiitake a couple of months. Place the fully colonised
bags in a cool, moist position in full light, but out of direct
sunlight, and fruiting should occur after several weeks.
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