PRUNE: Starting at least two years after planting, trees and shrubs should be pruned to improve their structure by uniform spacing of the main stems and branches. Thin out weak growth by eliminating weak crotches. You can raise the head of a tree by removing its lowest branches. Shrubs can be kept shapely and restricted by frequent pruning. Drastic pruning of shrubs should be done only by removing old wood to the ground. Roses should be pruned in the spring.

Narrow-leaved evergreens can be kept thick, shapely and their growth restricted by simply pinching back the ends of the branches or pinching back part of the tender new growth. A neat evergreen hedge can be maintained by cutting back whenever the growth becomes irregular.

Broad-leaved evergreens can be tip-pruned just before new growth starts to keep your shrubs thick. Remove faded flower clusters from Rhododendrons and Laurels to prevent seed formation, and this is adequate pruning for them.

CULTIVATE: Frequent, shallow cultivation will control weeds and produce dust mulch to conserve much needed moisture in the soil.

MULCH: A mulch of peat, grass clippings, strawy manure, marsh hay or compost may be used instead of a dust mulch of ornamental trees, shrubs and evergreens.

WATER: Artificial watering of new plantings during dry spells is necessary for several years. Give the plant all the water that the soil around it will take at one time. Make certain evergreens have plenty of moisture in the fall..

FERTILIZE: With spring planting, a water soluble fertilizer is recommended such as ALASKA START-UP^tm In the fall we would caution you from using a fertilizer high in nitrogen. The reason to avoid nitrogen in the fall is that it may encourage new growth, which might be too tender with the colder weather in the fall. When planting bulbs or perennials, the use of BONEMEAL in the soil is effective in the growth. With the use of any fertilizer, for best results read instructions.

Plant crowns in a row to make weed control easier to accomplish. After marking off the row, furrow or spade out a trench at least 10 in. wide and 8 in. deep. Place some loose soil in the bottom of the furrow. Place crowns 18 in. apart in the bottom of the furrow. Cover the crowns with 2 in. of soil initially. Gradually fill in the furrow as the spears grow. By using this procedure, small weeds growing in the furrow can be covered and killed. The final depth of soil over crowns should not excede 6 in. in clay soils and 8 in. in lighter, more sandy soils. Good drainage is important. It is best not to begin picking your asparagus until the second season. Preferred pH6-7.

They require full sunlight to moderate shade, generally growing on the north and east side of the house where they are protected from hot afternoon sun.

Dig a hole at least twice the width of the root system. Prepare the soil generously with peat moss or leaf mold, this will increase the acidity and moisture of the soil. Set the plant in the hole no deeper than already planted in the pot, fill the hole with soil and snugly pack around the roots. Soak the soil sufficiently to bring it in close to the roots. Use ALASKA IRON & ZINC W/CHELATE to keep pH between 4.5-5.5.

Water only when needed by hand for the first year. If properly mulched your plant should only need watered when the top few inches of the soil is dry. When watering be sure it reaches down to the bottom roots. Having a mulch on the soil will help retain the water so be sure not to overwater, check under the mulch to see if the soil is dry.

The best time to prune is right after the blossoms have fallen. Do not wait until later in the season as the next years blooms will be pruned off.

Surprisingly perhaps, the Bamboos are members of the grass family (Gramineae) They are of easy culture with these few simple requirements:

1. Plant roots 4 in. deep laying down. If you see buds, plant them upwards.
2. Bamboos 'use' plenty of water and should be watered as needed to supplement local rain fall, at least twice a week. Curling of the leaves is usually a signal that water is needed. Like most plants; however, they don't like their roots standing in water.
3. They do not require elaborate soil preparations and ask only for a reasonably fertile and well drained soil. Upon first planting, well composted barnyard manure, sawdust or other organic matter worked into the soil will help get them off to a good start. Should sprout in 1-2 months.
4. Bamboos like lots of light and will do only moderately well in partial shade. Don't expect their best in full shade.
5. Regular feeding is a must to keep your plants growing vigorously (any balanced lawn or garden plant food will do).
6. As Bamboo develops into clumps they can be divided to increase your planting. Depending upon root size, simply divide with a sharp trowel or spade (each division should consist of three connected culms) Culms are the aerial or above-ground jointed stems of bamboos often referred to as a 'cane'. If the culms are large in the case of outdoor bamboo, they should be shortened to about 2 ft. when transplanting.
7. The hardy outdoor Bamboo withstands temperatures to -20ºF. A winter mulch of 1 to 2 in. is recommended in colder parts of the country..

(Fruit and Nut Trees are listed separately) Upon receiving your plants, open up the plastic and make sure the roots are moist. They should be kept moist until planted. When planting your trees or shrubs, dig a hole at least twice as wide as the roots of the plant. Compost or dehydrated manure should be mixed with the soil. Set the plant at the same level or up to one inch deeper than it was in the Nursery (as per soil line on plant). When you put the roots in the hole do not crowd the roots, spread them out. Lightly work the soil around the roots. Finish filling the hole with soil and lightly tamp it down. Leave a slight depression at the top to catch water. The plants should be fertilized when watered. We recommend ALASKA START-up^TM. Water your plants thoroughly and then mulch.

During the transplanting process, trees lose a small portion of the root system they formerly had. To insure rapid, growth in their new location, the top should be pruned back so that there is a balance of root to top. Damaged branches should be trimmed off below the point of injury. The central trunk or leaders should be left intact to build a high crown and the side branches should be shortened by at least one third. This may seem to be harsh treatment but the rapid re-growth which results will more than justify it. Broken roots should be cut off above the break and bruised ends cut off cleanly.

Water your plants heavily only as needed for the first year. If properly mulched, your plant should only need watering once a week (and most times not even that). Before watering, the top few inches should be dry. Your plants have been shipped to you in a dormant state and will leaf out and grow if given the proper care. It can take 4-6 weeks for leaves to emerge.

BLUEBERRIES
Trim your new plants back about one half the first season. After the first season (in early spring) trim your plant if needed. Remove the flowers the first year to let your plants save their strength.

Blueberries require about 200 hours of temperature below 40°F. For best protection, plant them where they can receive at least 8 hours of sunlight per day. Too much shade results in spindly growth, reduces yield, and decreases the quality of the fruit.

For best plant growth the pH should be between 4.5-5.6. If higher add ALUMINUM SULPHATE. About 1/2 cup per plant, mulch in. If lower or sour, add lime. Using about 1/4 lb. per sq. ft. will raise the pH by one point.

When planting, dig the hole approx. 2 ft. in diameter by 2 ft. deep. Use a mixture of equal parts loam, sand and organic matter, such as rotted sawdust, compost or peat moss to fill the hole when planting (be sure the sawdust and compost are well rotted before using). After the plant is in the hole, fill it 3/4 full with your soil mixture, flood with water, after water has seeped out, fill the remainder with soil and pack firmly. Water with a starter solution such as ALASKA START-UP^tm.

Spacing of 6 ft. apart within a row and 8-10 ft. apart between rows. If planting in a hedge, space 4 ft. apart. After planting in the spring (March/April) and the plant has been in the ground about a month apply HOLLYTONE fertilizer. In July repeat application.

ELDERBERRIES
They tolerate full sun to shade but do better in full sun. Prefers a rich, moist location, but not where soil is waterlogged. Set plants about 8-10 ft. apart. As bushes grow, prune out old wood.

GOOSEBERRIES and CURRANTS
After you receive your plants, prune off any damaged roots, and cut the top back to 10-12 in. Place the plant with the lower branches a little below ground level to encourage a bush form to develop. Space your plants 4-6 ft. apart in rows 6-8 ft. apart. Each spring, prune away weak branches, leaving only several strong shoot from each year. Prune away all branches 3 years old or older to make room for younger branches.

RASPBERRIES and BLACKBERRIES
They require a good, well drained garden soil not heavy in clay with a pH around 6.5 and lots of sun. Plant 3 ft. apart and 4-6 ft. spacing of the rows.

A newly planted Raspberry plant should have the leader buds placed just below the soil line about 2-3 in. (leader buds are the buds at the bottom on the main stem, just above the roots). Set your plants in a hole large enough to contain the roots without crowding. Press soil firmly about the plant roots and Water well to prevent air pockets in the soil. If weather is dry, put a light mulch to hold the moisture.

Fruit is borne on the leafy shoot's which arise from the side buds (on the one year old canes). In late March or early April (starting the second season) before bud growth starts, trim back last years growth of canes 1/4. These will be the canes that bear this years fruit. The second pruning should take place after the canes fruit. As soon as berries have been picked, cut back the canes which have bore fruit. Spreading fruiting canes apart in the row in a v-configuration significantly improves fruit yield and hastens drying within the plant canopy. It also makes spraying and harvesting easier. The third season and from then on cut back to 1/3 of the height, early spring (March or April) before the bud growth starts.

Mowing down half the planting every other year, can bring yields equal to conventional annual intensive pruning and fruiting. This also reduces labor and spray costs.

Using a FLOATING ROW COVER in early spring over fall bearing raspberries, such as Heritage, accelerates cane growth and yield and in the north can minimize damage from a late frost.

Water or high humidity is essential for infection by most disease organisms, so proper pruning and air movement can help to eliminate this problem. Since most diseases require standing water to complete their life cycle, good soil drainage minimizes these problems. It's also best to separate red and black raspberries by 300 ft. to prevent diseases..

EVERBERRING RASPBERRIES
They bear fruit twice on the same cane, so don't cut back after the first crop. The fruit canes of the everbearers should not be pruned until after bearing in the fall, since this would remove the fruiting wood for the spring crop. To keep the plant contained, remove the dead canes and the long runners.

We recommend pinching off all blossoms the first year. If you can't wait for the next season, leave one blossom in 7 to give you a small crop. In late fall, after frost, cover the bed with 2 in. of mulch: wheat, straw, leaves etc. Rake off the mulch in the spring and place it between and around the plants. This helps to control weeds and keep the berries clean.

STRAWBERRIES
Be sure to plow or spade your soil deeply before planting. Push your spade into the ground to its full depth, then press it to one side and set your roots into that spot. Spread them out in a fan shape (hanging down to their full length). Set the plant with its crown at the surface or a little below it. Remove your spade and press dirt against the roots. Extremely long roots may be cut back for convenience in planting. For small gardens, 25 plants would fill 3 10 ft. rows.

OLIVE
Grow in a fully sunny location in ordinary potting soil. Water only when dry, once the plant is established in its next size larger pot. Prune for a single trunk is desired. As an outdoor tree, the temperature should no go below 15°F. Pickling is necessary, since raw olives are inedible.

DATE PALM
A sun lover, but as a young plant it will be happier in part shade. Good potting soil and not too large container (with drainage) is suggested. The best time to transplant palms is late spring or early summer. Damage will occur at temperatures under 25°F.
If grown in a container, move it indoors to a sunny window for winter in northern states.
Feed in late spring with a high nitrogen fertilizer in half-dose amounts about 3 times, 3 weeks apart.

HARDY FIGS
Garden Planting: Set in soil as any fruit tree, watering generously until growth starts. Any good garden soil is satisfactory. Summer heat and sunshine are important. Feed with a general garden fertilizer. Winter vare in states north of Maryland climate consists of tying up with a few layers of burlap from top to bottom, or digging plant and covering with soil in a horizontal position. In the event that some or all branches freeze out, remove those dead branches and new growth should come from the base in spring.
Indoor Planting: Grow in your sunniest exposure. It will probably bear fruit if summered outdoors in a sunny place. Feed regularly during its growing season and cut back unwieldly shoots. Cut back watering and use no plant food in winter.

DWARF POMEGRANATE
It is very tolerant of general plant growing conditions, as long as it is not permitted to dry out completely. Keep it from freezing temperatures and place it in a mostly sunny location. The warmer it is, the better it produces. Repot in a 4 in. pot for now, using a packaged houseplant soil mix. Makes an excellent bonsai subject.

CANNAS
May be started indoors about 4 weeks before outdoor planting. Lay the root horizontally in the potting soil and about 1 in. below the surface using a pot 1 in. larger than the root system. Plant outdoors after the danger of frost is over. Space the plants 15-18 in. apart in rich garden soil. Cannas love full sun and hot weather. They are most effective where their height does not over-shadow other plantings. Keep moist and fertilize at least once a month with GROGREEN 20-20-20 fertilizer. North of Zone 8, you need to dig and store the roots over the winter in an area where the roots will not freeze. Cannas can also be grown throughout the summer in a container, 5 gallon or larger. When planting Cannas in short season areas, you may want to start them indoors early to ensure blooming later on..

DAYLILIES
Select a location in full sun to partial shade in a rich, well-manured, moist soil for the best growth. Plant crowns 1-2 in. below soil surface at a distance of 1-2 ft. apart. Feed the plants with 12-12-12 fertilizer. Lift, divide and replant every third year to ensure free flowering plants.

GLADIOLUS
Begin planting in the spring and stagger planting in Bi-weekly intervals until late June to assure flowers over a longer growing season. Blooming time can vary from 70-100 days after planting depending on the lateness in the season. Gladiolus prefer sandy soil but will tolerate almost anything. Plant in rows or clumps about 4-6 in. apart. They need full sun and the taller varieties may require staking. Mulch to keep roots cool and water well. Fertilize when the flower spikes first appear and after the flowers are picked with GROGREEN 10-50-10. Gladiolus are extremely susceptible to thrip infestation. The leaves will become streaked and the flowers withered. Spray the plants weekly with insecticidal soap, Eight, malathion or diazinon starting when the plants are about 6 in. tall. Prune away affected flowers and destroy.

Dig up the bulbs 4-6 weeks after the flowers fade. Remove as much soil as possible and cut off the flowers stalk 1 in. above the bulb. Dry the bulbs for 3 weeks, then clean off the outer husk. Separate the bulbs and use a fungicide solution (3 TBS. CAPTAN to 1 gallon water). Dry for a week and store.

HARDY GLADS
Plant the bulbs 4-6 in. apart. They should be planted in full sun and in almost any type of well-drained garden soil. Fertilize when planting with GROGREEN 10-50-10 but avoid animal manure since it may encourage rot. Mulch over the winter for protection. They bloom from early June-July..

OXALIS
May be grown outdoors in climates where temperatures stay above freezing. In the northern states, they must be lifted and stored or grown indoors over the winter. Plant about 1 in. below the soil surface. Water frequently and fertilize at least once a month. Can be grown in full sun or light shade. Indoors, plant about 1 in. deep in good potting soil. They need at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Water well and fertilize once a month with indoor fertilizer.

RANUNCULUS
Before planting, soak bulbs for 8-10 hours in warm water. Ranunculus like cool nights and sunny but not hot days. Plant in a sunny, well-drained area claw-side down 3 in. deep and 3 in. apart. As soon as the foliage appears, fertilize weekly with GROGREEN 10-50-10. Ranunculus should be lifted and rested. Start bulbs indoors in the northern states for best results, (2-4 weeks before the last frost).

PEONIES
They will grow in a wide range of soils, slightly acid soil is best, but well drained. They do best in full sun, but will tolerate semi-shade. Prepare soil deeply (18-24 in.) and enrich with humus. Avoid direct contact of fertilizer to roots when planting (use a fertilizer high in phosphorus such as GROGREEN 10-50-10 after planted. Set the plant so the crown is 1-2" below the soil line. Deeper planting will result in the failure for the plant to bloom. Feed each spring with a balanced plant food such as (10-10-10) about 1 handful per plant. In fall, October or November, cut shoots back to the ground and burn all peony foliage. Mulch the first winter after the ground freezes, with straw or leaves.

TREE PEONIES require the same culture as the above. Plant them with the graft 3-4 in. below the soil line. NEVER cut the tree peonies all the way to the ground. Just prune each year after flowering to maintain bushy shape.

Prepare an 18-24 in. hole. Mix in peat and sand to improve drainage and texture and stir in a handful of lime. Sit the plant with its crown at soil level. Fill and firm the soil over the spread-out roots. Tie a string to the stem and lead its other end up to the vine's permanent trellis. This gives an immediate anchorage and helps it climb..Water freely the first season, soak it once a week unless natural rain is plentiful. Feed twice a season with a balanced fertilizer such as WATCH US GROW, and a little lime. Use a thick compost or peat moss mulch in autumn. Prune the first spring after planting to 6-12 in. from the ground. The tips of growing shoots can be pinched out during late spring and early summer to induce additional branching. The more you prune the first year, the better the future of the plant. Ones that flower late summer or in the fall should be pruned back hard each spring. This kind, bloom on new growth. Ones that bloom in early spring to early summer should not be pruned except to remove dead stems.

Dogwoods are an understory tree, growing in nature under the protective branches of larger trees in a natural mulch of leaves. They like some shade, with cool and moist soil, but not wet.

They have a shallow root system leaving them susceptible to damage from drying out, mechanical, insect or disease injury, and oxygen starvation. So select a well drained site to plant your dogwood and do not plant too deep. Plant no deeper than the tree grew.

Dig a hole 1 1/2 to 2 times wider than the ball or the spread of the roots of bareroot plants. Never let the roots become dry. Keep the roots covered with a damp cloth or moist packing material.

Mix an organic soil amendment such as leaf compost or manure with your native soil. The soil should be packed well around the root ball or roots to prevent air pockets. Soak with water after planting.

After the soil settles apply 2-3 in. of mulch. You can use wood chips, pine straw, rotted sawdust or straw to keep the roots cool and moist.

The care after planting your dogwood is very important. Water as needed, check under the mulch weekly if it is dry, then water thoroughly.

Your dogwood may need help to get it to leaf out. This is called the sweating process. Cover the top of the tree with a white garbage bag. Make sure the temperatures get no higher than 90°F. (on hot sunny days, be sure to not cook the tree). Take the bag off when you see the leaves coming out, this can take 2-6 weeks depending on the weather.

Protect the trunks from injury by using tree wrap or heavy paper. This protects the tree from sun scald, dogwood borer, field mice and the lawn mower.

Fertilizing is usually not needed the first year. Excess fertilizer can damage the roots. Allow rainfall and waterings to carry it to the root system. Too much nitrogen will over stimulate the leaf and stem growth and decrease blooms, so use a low nitrogen fertilizer such as ALASKA START-UP^tm. Dogwoods prefer a pH of 5-6.5.

Very little pruning is need except for broken twigs or roots when transplanting a dogwood. If the top is large in proportion to the size of the root system, then remove some small side limbs. Once a dogwood is established, little or no pruning is needed.

Moisture and protection from the direct rays of the sun (at least during the warm season) are the two prerequisites of fern culture. They need good drainage, prefer good rich loamy soil and a northern exposure. Plant the fern under 1 in. of soil or sand as this will maintain moisture underground. In late summer and fall do not remove the dead fronds since these act as natural insulation for the ferns during the winter months. In the summer, keep the beds mulched and water well into November. After a hard frost, cover lightly with leaves or evergreen boughs and do not remove until all danger of frost or freeze has passed.

Plant your fig after heavy frosts are past, but plant before they begin leafing out..Recommended spacing for figs are about 6-8' in the north and 20' in warmer areas..If planting in the south, plant just like any other outdoor plant or fruit tree. In the northern areas or colder climates, plant in a container with good drainage (a wooden tub works well), a 24" high and wide container is a good choice. Put your plant in good garden soil or potting soil that does not contain manures. Keeping the soil moist but not wet..Fertilize monthly with a liquid fertilizer such as MAXICROP. You can expect to harvest fruit in 3-5 years after planting in most cases..After the late-summer harvest, prune lightly only if the tree is growing too fast. Reduce watering in the fall. The tree will defoliate after first frost. Move container into a protected area with enough warmth through the winter to keep the soil from freezing. Water only enough to prevent shriveling of the stem. Dormant figs don't need light.Move figs back outdoors in the spring, after chance of heavy frost has past..If you plant your tree out in the north, choose a sheltered location, unless you choose to bury or wrap it in the winter. To do the latter, wait until the leaves have fallen and the top 1-2" of soil is frozen. First prune the tree, remove any extra branches, and bundle the remaining branches together with twine. Then wrap the standing tree in a thick foam or other insulation and protect it with a waterproof cover, plastic, or tar paper. Cover the end with a can or bucket to keep water out, but letting air in. Burying the fig is another method. After the tree has lost its leaves to frost, the branches are pulled up tightly and bound with rope or twine without breaking. Then dig a trench, generally 2-3' deep and as wide as the bound tree (about 2') and long enough to tip the tree into. Bend the tree over and into the trench. You sometimes may have to cut the roots on the one side to tip the tree. Hold it into place while you bury it under leaves, straw, or old newspaper. Mound it with a foot or more of soil. In spring, uncover the tree and gently return it to the upright position. Cut back your fig after the first year if it is not branching out. This will encourage multiple trunks and more fruit later..

To plant your fruit trees, follow the same procedure as with all bare root plants. The graft of the tree, which is right above the root system, should be above the top of the soil when planted on semi-dwarf and dwarf trees. On standard size fruit trees the graft should be slightly buried in the ground. Fill the hole with soil and lightly tamp down. Leave a slight depression at the top of the hole to catch water and then put mulch on top of the ground to keep the soil moist. The trees should be fertilized before watering, using a fertilizer that is high in phospherous, such as GROGREEN 10-50-10 which is specifically made for starting new plants. Then water each tree with about one gallon of water. They should be continually watered as per instructions. After planting, the limbs of the trees should be trimmed back about 1/3, this helps the trees and roots to begin growing sooner and do better. Also, any excess limbs should be pruned off. Most fruit trees should be left with only three to five branches. Your fruit trees have been shipped to you in a dormant state and will leaf out and grow if given the proper care by you. Please be patient with your new plants and they will reward you greatly.

When planting fruit trees, spacing is important.

Tree_________Standard_________Dwarf
Apple__________35 ft.___________10-12 ft.
Cherry__________25 ft.___________15-20 ft.
Apricot_________20 ft.___________10 ft.
Plum___________20 ft.___________10 ft.
Peach__________20 ft.___________10 ft.
Pear___________20 ft.___________10-12 ft.
Pearapple______________________10-12 ft.
Quince________________________15 ft.

The grafted ornamental needs special care especially during the first year of its life. Upon receipt it should be watered heavily. Preparation for planting a graft would follow as with other potted plants except for the following: on all grafts except for those with high grafts (which are mainly maples), the rubber band should be carefully taken off and the whole graft must be planted below the ground level. On the higher grafted plants the rubber band does not need to be taken off until you have the plant for a year. See potted plant instructions for more information on care.

Dig the hole large enough that the roots are not crowded, about 8 in. wider and 3 in. deeper than the roots. Fill and firm the soil around the roots. Leave the crown about 1-2 in. above the ground level (crown of the plant is where the first buds come out or the first branches). When planting, space 6-8 ft. apart. The ideal pH is between 5-7.

Fertilizing with a commercial fertilizer such as 10-10-10 will supply the vine with all the nutrients needed. Use 1 lb. per vine in a mature vineyard. Use less on younger vines and do not fertilize at all the first season, unless using a non-burning fertilizer like GROGREEN 10-50-10. Apply as soon as the buds start to swell.

Pruning is the most important operation of all in growing grapes. It must be done every year (anytime between November 15 and April 1). It is impossible to injure the vines by pruning, but the vines can be permanently injured if no pruning is done. On unpruned vines the fruit will be small and inferior.

Your ground cover soil conditions should be well-drained soil, meaning that the water must not stand on the surface for extended periods or the soil should not be dense and hard when dry. Sandy soil lacks the capacity to retain nutrients and generally dries out quickly. To transform sandy soil to loamy or rich soil, add organic matter such as rotted leaves or other composting material.

Planting in straight rows and beginning at the outside edge of the bed creates an orderly appearance and helps avoid bunching. Planting in a well-tilled bed with pre-marked rows goes quite quickly. Use a trowel or bare hands for planting, making sure the roots are lightly covered without burying the plants. The soil level around the plant should be close to what it was when grown in the field or pot. Planting too deep could cause rotting of the stem crown. The bed should be watered immediately and thoroughly, if using a sprinkler, caution is advised to avoid washouts.

Mulching helps to deter weeds, retain moisture and prevent heaving in the winter. A 2-3 in. covering is quite effective in preventing weeds. One cubic yard of mulch will cover 100 sq. ft. to a depth of 3-4 in.

Feed your groundcover bed once a month, from early spring until July 15, but not after. Use a general purpose fertilizer such as slow realease OSMOCOTE 14-14-14. To prevent winterkill of evergreen groundcovers use WILTPRUF.

Care must be taken in planting hedges to be certain they are spaced right...not too close and without gaps. Spacing depends upon the spread of the plant. (Hedges to be kept under 3 ft. should be planted 12 in. apart. For a 3-5 ft. spread, plant 18-24 in. apart. For an even wider spread, plant 2-4 ft. apart). For hedge planted 18 in. apart or closer, it is easiest to dig a trench. To create a full hedge for screen or windbreak, it is effective to plant 2 staggered rows.

When planting hedges, it is essential to prune plants down to at least 12 in. off the ground. This will force the bottom of the hedge to be dense with branches. After its first spring, the hedge can be trimmed whenever desired. A flowering hedge, should be trimmed after flowering. Trimming more than once during the growing season will help to make the hedge fuller. Flowering fence gets planted 5 ft. apart.

BAY LEAF TREE
Grow where atmosphere is moist, in bright sun. Temperatures should be moderate (75°F. maximum at night).

In winter keep soil barely moist. During active growing season, water frequently.

Feed with a balanced plant food every 6-8 weeks from early spring through late summer.

The domestic hop (Humulus lupulus)may be grown in all parts of the U.S. The cuttings should be planted vertically, one inch below the ground surface in moist well-worked soil which can be pressed against the roots so no air pockets remain. THE EYES OR SPROUTS MUST BE POINTING UPWARD (this is a must). They will thrive in almost any soil that is not too alkaline and is well drained. Hops should be given a sunny location. Sunlight is essential for development of the hop cones.

If grown on an arbor or fence, the spacing may be as close as 1 ft. At most a mature vine can be expected to reach 25 or 30 ft. Thrives on alternate wetting and draining as opposed to constant soaking.

Set roots out spring or fall, 1 ft. apart in rows 1 ft. apart. Roots mature in 150-175 days after planting with a 2-3 in. soil covering. Plant in a good humus soil that is deeply cultivated. Fertilize above the roots with 10-10-10 (1 lb. per 50 ft.)

When you are keeping the plant containerized for either a houseplant or a patio container, there are a few things to do.

IMPORTANT: Water your plant immediately after unpacking. Your plant should be repotted in a pot 1-2 in. larger than the pot it arrived in. Use a good potting soil or a mixture of 1/3 course sand, 1/3 peat moss and 1/3 good garden soil (or packaged top soil). Water well before repotting. Turn the plant upside down and tap on the bottom and remove the plant from the pot. Never pull the plant by the stem!

WATERING: Water thoroughly after repotting and 1 time weekly (it may require more or less depending on the plant and location). Do not let the plant set in water for more than a few hours.

FERTILIZING: Use a good water soluble fertilizer such as GROGREEN 20-20-20. First application should be 10 days to 2 weeks after repotting. Following the instructions after that as stated on the fertilizer container.

SUNLIGHT: Plenty of sunlight is required for these plants (but not hot direct summer sun). Keep in a sunny location or under an artificial lighting during the winter months, or on a porch with temperature control. You can place it outside when danger of frost has passed in your area. Never put the plant in direct sun as this may burn the foliage. Early morning sun is fine for most plants.

TEMPERATURE: Keep your plants from freezing. For best results, a temperature of 55-65°F. should be maintained during the winter months.

It is best to be planted in a well drained soil. They should be planted about 20 ft. apart in rows 14 ft apart. This averages 160 plants per acre. One male plant should be planted for every 8 females.

Shortly after planting, trellises should be built for support. The (Actinidia deliciosa) is hardy down to 10°F. and the (A. arguta) and Issai are hardy to at least minus 25°F. Kiwi ripens in the fall and can be stored for 4 months. They need heavily fertilized in winter and spring. They bear normally after 3 years, with fruit being produced on current seasons wood. Each winter new growth should be cut back to 8-10 buds to ensure vigorous growth and abundant fruit. Kiwi have a life expectancy of around 50 years.

The Issai does not need a male to bear fruit, but planting a male does increase yields.

Your new nut trees will give you much satisfaction, especially if they are cared for correctly during the first few years. Nut trees DO NOT need to be pruned before planting. Walnuts and Almonds require well drained soil. After planting they should be fertilized with GROGREEN 10-50-10 which is especially effective for the root development of the tree which then promotes the branching growth of the plant. Do not be alarmed if the tree does not leaf out in the first month as nut trees take longer than most to leaf out, especially those with tap roots. To tell if the trees are alive, you can lightly scratch the bark of the main stem with your fingernail. If it is green or a moist white underneath the bark, the tree is alive and should, under normal conditions, grow. The trees should be watered for the first year as per topic 'Fruit Trees', and fertilized with GROGREEN 10-50-10 as per directions. If the tree has not leafed out in the first season, notify us as per our warranty. Do not be alarmed if your tree seems to have nothing but a tap root as many young trees have not developed their other roots. See topic 'Sweating'.

When planting, set the top of the rootball at soil level: Don't cover plant crown (crown is the base of the plant where the stem and the roots meet) with soil. Water to keep soil around roots moist until established, normally the first year.

Types like Oat Grass, the Fescues, and Sedges are evergreens. Like most perennials, they have a period when their foliage looks shabby. In the fall, pull off dead leaves, trim spent flowers, or shear all but the oat grass and sedge to the ground and let foliage grow new. Prune others when the foliage dies back in the winter or after leaves turn brown. In colder climates, ones that turn pale gold and biscuit provide winter accent, cut back in early spring before the new growth starts. A good rule for distance is planting at a distance to match the mature height of the grass. Example: if it gets 3-4 ft. tall, plant 3-4 ft. spacing. Fertilizing with a time release fertilizer such as OSMOCOTE 14-14-14 is recommended for use in the spring planting of grasses.

DRYING
Pick the stems on a dry, sunny day after the dew of morning has evaporated. Choose flowers that have not yet completely opened and cut stems as long as you can. They can be trimmed later. Strip any excess leaves, tie small bunches of stems together, and hang them upside down on wire coat hangers, in a cool, dry airy room, leaving plenty of air space between bundles. The drying process takes between 2 to 3 weeks.

MAGNOLIA VINE COMPOTE
Wash bunches of fruit in running water, remove stems, fill pint jar 2/3 full and top off with boiling sugar syrup (1 part water 1 part sugar). Process by boiling jars for 10-15 minutes to seal. Commonly used to sweeten and flavor tea.

CORNELIAN CHERRY PRESERVES
1lb. ripe fruit, 3 cups sugar, 4 cups water. Wash fruit, add warm water and fruit to large saucepan and heat at 175°-180°F for 3-5 minutes. Drain off water and use to make sugar syrup (boil sugar in water until dissolved). Add fruit to hot syrup and let stand for 3-4 hours. Bring to a boil for 3-4 minutes, let stand for 5-8 hours and repeat 2-3 times. Preserves are ready when drops of syrup stand when dropped on a cool plate. These preserves are a real delicacy, used to sweeten tea, as a topping for ice cream, or simply eaten..

SEABERRY JUICE
Better Than Orange Juice!
Harvest the fruit after it turns bright orange, usually late August to early September. Harvest before it softens as the soft fruit is more difficult to pick. Wash fruit, then crush it in a large kettle and strain separating juice from seeds and pulp. Heat juice to about 120°F and add an equal amount of sugar. Honey may be used or less sugar for a more tart juice. Experiment! Once the sugar is dissolved, juice can be bottled using approved methods or mixed with water for fresh consumption. Try mixing 30% to 50% juice with flavored or unflavored mineral water.

CORNELIAN CHERRY PRESERVES
Sort out sound ripe fruit, remove stems and twigs, and wash, first in warm water and then under tap water. Put cleaned fruit in a kettle. Add water at the rate of 1 pint to 2 lbs. of fruit. While stirring regularly, raise temperature to 185° to 195°F. Keep at this temperature until fruit softens, cool to 115° to 120°F and strain out the juice. To store, heat the juice to 195°, pour into hot jars and quickly seal. 3 2/3 to 4 lbs of fruit makes 1 quart of juice. When using juice, add sugar to taste.<p><br><b>MOUNTAIN ASH JUICE</b><br>Sort out sound ripe fruit, remove stems and twigs, and wash, first in warm water and then under tap water. Put cleaned fruit in a kettle. Add water at the rate of 1 pint to 2 lbs. of fruit. While stirring regularly, raise temperature to 185° to 195°. Keep at this temperature until fruit softens, cool to 115° to 120° and strain out the juice. To store, heat the juice to 195°, pour into hot jars and quickly seal. 3 2/3 to 4 lbs. of fruit makes 1 quart of juice. When using juice, add sugar to taste.<p><br><b>ARONIA (Chokeberry) PRESERVE</b><br>2 lb/1kg chokeberries, 1 lb/500gm white currants or red currants if white unavailable, 1 small lemon, a little water, approx. 2 lb/kg sugar. Thoroughly wash the berries and currants, chop the lemon and simmer all three with just sufficient water to cover. Simmer till soft, then sieve out the skins and pips, weigh the juice and return it to the pan with three quarters of its weight in sugar. Skim well then put in small jars. Store for six months before use. Serve with ham, new potatoes and peas.<p><br><b>STEVIA</b><br>Cooking with Stevia - One fresh Stevia leaf is enough to sweeten a cup of tea or coffee or a glass of lemonade. Or add the leaves to baked beans, barbecue sauce, salad dressings, soups, and stews. Unlike some other sugar substitutes, stevia is stable when heated, so the powder can be used in baking. However, this requires a willingness to experiment. Much less Stevia powder is needed for the same level of sweetness provided by sugar, but sugar also adds volume, so liquid and dry ingredients will need to be adjusted. Estimates vary widely because of natural variation in the plant, but figure that between 1 tsp. and 1 TBS. of dried, ground stevia leaves equals about 1 cup of sugar. <p>*Because of shipping problems, we no longer carry Stevia.</div> <a href="#top"><img src="../../graphics/arrowupgreen.gif" width="15" height="15" alt="arrowupgreen.gif - 1kb" border="0"> <font size="1">Back to Top</a><br> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5"> <hr> </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#99CC66"> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif" bgcolor="#A37D32"> <div align="left"><a name="Rhubarb"><b>Rhubarb</b></a></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif"> <div align="left">Plant in well-prepared, well drained, rich soil, 3-4 ft. apart with the top of the division 1 in. below the surface of the ground. Remember to fertilize with manure or a general garden fertilizer each fall and spring for maximum results. pH should be slightly acid between 5.5-6.5.</div> <a href="#top"><img src="../../graphics/arrowupgreen.gif" width="15" height="15" alt="arrowupgreen.gif - 1kb" border="0"> <font size="1">Back to Top</a><br> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5"> <hr> </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#99CC66"> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif" bgcolor="#A37D32"> <div align="left"><a name="Soil Preparation"><b>Soil Preparation</b></a></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif"> <div align="left">Soil Preparation Is Important! Be sure that your planting area is deeply spaded or plowed. Bare roots needs a lot of growing space, and the soil must be soft enough for the roots to spread for fast, full growth. The planting hole should be large enough to allow for at least 6 or 8 in. of space all around the roots, or twice as wide as the roots whichever is greater. Use good soil and humus (leaf mold or rotted cow manure) mixture for fill. We recommend GROGREEN 10-50-10 fertilizer when planting. When planting in sod, be sure to allow 2-3 ft. of mulched, cultivated soil around your plant for air and moisture.</div> <a href="#top"><img src="../../graphics/arrowupgreen.gif" width="15" height="15" alt="arrowupgreen.gif - 1kb" border="0"> <font size="1">Back to Top</a><br> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5"> <hr> </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#99CC66"> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif" bgcolor="#A37D32"> <div align="left"><a name="Sweating Your Plants"><b>Sweating Your Plants</b></a></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif"> <div align="left">There are a few varieties of plants which may need extra care to leaf out. These varieties become very dormant over winter. Types of plants which need this are Dogwoods, Paw Paw, Oak, Redbud, Enkianthus, Birch, Beech, Hackberry, Hawthorne, Tamarix, Sassafras, Black Gum, Linden, and Sweet Gum. <p>The easiest way to do the sweating process is to plant in the desired area, then cover the plants with white plastic such as a white garbage bag (make sure on hot sunny days that you do not cook the plant). The temperature should be between 45º and 90º. Do not remove the plastic for good until the buds have turned into leaves. The buds normally begin to swell in a few days. The sweating provides warm humid conditions which are essential for the plants. <p>After the buds have begun to swell and leaves begin to show, the plants can then be moved to their designated place if you had to pot or plant in an area other than the desired spot. They should not be moved if temperatures are subfreezing. As with all plants, they should be watered as needed. We also suggest GROGREEN fertilizer to help the plants become established quicker. <p>The other way to have the right environment is to plant the items when your outside temperature and humidity are high. For Ohio this is in early to mid May.</div> <a href="#top"><img src="../../graphics/arrowupgreen.gif" width="15" height="15" alt="arrowupgreen.gif - 1kb" border="0"> <font size="1">Back to Top</a><br> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5"> <hr> </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#99CC66"> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif" bgcolor="#A37D32"> <div align="left"><a name="Tree Spacing"><b>Tree Spacing</b></a></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif"> <a href="#top"><img src="../../graphics/arrowupgreen.gif" width="15" height="15" alt="arrowupgreen.gif - 1kb" border="0"> <font size="1">Back to Top</a><br> <div align="left">This is just a general listing of spacing for Lawn Specimens. If a woods type setting is desired, planting at a closer spacing can be done. <b><p>Type Of Tree and Spacing:</b> <li>Small Flowering and Ornamental Trees: 20 ft. between trees, 8-10 ft. from building. <li>Medium size or Columnar Shade Trees: 30 ft. between trees, 12-15 ft. from building. <li>Major Shade Trees: 40-60 ft. between trees, 25-30 ft. from building. <li>Screening Trees: 6 ft. between trees, 10 ft. from building.</div> <a href="#top"><img src="../../graphics/arrowupgreen.gif" width="15" height="15" alt="arrowupgreen.gif - 1kb" border="0"> <font size="1">Back to Top</a><br> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5"> <hr> </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#99CC66"> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif" bgcolor="#A37D32"> <div align="left"><a name="Tropical Plants"><b>Tropical Plants</b></a></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif"> <div align="left"><b>BANANAS</b><br>The dwarf plant has very large tropical leaves, but grows no taller than a managable 5-8 ft. First comes beautiful rosy flowers. Then, it should bear fruit in less than 2 years. Offshoots become the next generation of plants. Just give it a sunny window, good soil and container drainage and a feeding with general houseplant food periodically, according to directions. Keep in temperatures above 50°F.<p><b>BOUGAINVILLEA</b><br>When your plants arrive, unpack them and water thoroughly. When transplanting, pinch off the terminal bud from the end of each branch that is long enough to handle. <b>Watch them carefully to avoid root damage as roots break easily</b>. Go easy on nitrogen fertilizer and water to prevent rambling growth. Grow in full sun for fast sturdy growth. Provide temperatures of at least 62°F. for rapid growth. Growing medium must be well drained. Bougainvilleas only bloom on the new growth so do not cut back too hard in the spring. Water thoroughly, then allow to become moderately dry between waterings. Don't let the plants become completely dry when in bloom, this will cause the blooms to drop.<p><b>CARNIVOROUS PLANTS</B><BR>A unique group of plants which need no fertilizer if insects are provided as food. They receive their nutrients from the insects when eaten. They like moist sphagnum soil and high humidity. Plants grown indoors are best grown in a terrarium. Do not let the plants overheat by sitting in the sun. If planting outdooors in areas where they are hardy, you can make an artificial bog. To create a bog use live green sphagnum moss if available, if not pine needles, oak leaves, or evergreen branches. Do not let the plants dry out. Be sure to mulch in the winter to protect from colder weather.<p><B>CYCADS</B><BR>These long-lived plants are not fast growing. Young plants will produce several new sets of leaves during the growing season. <p>Potting soil should be very well drained. Perlite and Humus should be added to a sterilized soil mix. A porous clay pot is suggested. <p>Feed monthly during the growing season, with soluable fertilizer, not necessarily high in nitrogen. Fish emulsion is excellent. Stop feeding in fall, until April. <p>Young plants need semi-shade. Mature plants need partial sun. <p>Never expose to 45°F. or less. Avoid sudden cold snaps. <p>Although they resemble tree ferns, water as if they are cacti or succulents. Once the plant has become established, watering need not be closely monitored, as the trunk of older plants store moisture. <p>We advise moving the plants outdoors in late spring, in a location which light equals that of its indoor enviroment. You may slowly, over a few weeks time, move to a brighter exposure. <p>Outdoor cultivation year 'round, is limited to the deep south and pacific coast.<p><b>DWARF CITRUS</B><br>Oranges, tangerines, grapefruit, lemons and limes need to be grown in full sun to produce flowers and fruit. The plants should outgrow their original pots shortly and need to be transplanted into larger pots. Soil should be either acid or a general houseplant mix. <p>Water frequently, but plants should not be left to stand in water. Drainage of soil and pots is important. Good houseplant soluable fertilizer is advised, especially during the active growing months (early spring thru October) according to the directions on the package. <p>To help pollinate the flowers indoors, where there are no insects or breezes to do the job, use a watercolor brush on opened flowers and fruiting should develope. Also, you can gently break off the stamens and brush them over the top of the pistils of each flower. <p>Leaf loss can occur on a temporary basis when plants are relocated (especially during shipment), but will regrow. As these are placed into different light conditions, it should be a gradual (2 week) procedure.<p><b>GARDENIA</b><br>Place the plant in a bright indirect light at first. In about a week move it to a sunny window. Higher than usual humidity is required, which may mean the use of a tray of pebbles underneath the pot.<p>Keep the soil moist. Grows best if nights are at 65°F. A little lower for strong bud production. 70-72°F. by day is good. <p>Soil should be acid. Use a fertilizer containing soluable iron. <p>Use a potting soil high in organic matter. Any balanced houseplant food works well. It should be used during the active growing season and reduced during rest periods.<p><b>FLOWERING GINGER</b><br>Gingers are the easiest tropical plants to cultivate. <p>Provide moderate sunlight, well drained and spongy soil, along with plenty of water and as much humidity as possible..<p>A monthly feeding (from spring thru fall) with a balanced plant food helps the blooming. When plants become top heavy, they should be transplanted to larger containers. Keep the 'good drainage factor' in mind when selecting a suitable pot and soil mix.<p><b>HAWAIIAN TI PLANT</b><br>Remove wax from ends of the ti log. Plant log either vertically or horizontally in a good garden soil or in water. If garden soil is used it must be kept evenly moist and if water is used it must be changed regularly. Your ti log will sprout in 2-6 weeks. After it has sprouted leaves and roots fertilize with a good general fertilizer once a month. Your plant can tolerate temperatures of 62-85°F. and needs fresh air and filtered or diffused sunlight.<p><b>HAWAIIAN TREE FERN</b><br>You have recieved a bare trunk, with immature fronds at one end waiting to uncurl and green-up. <p>Set the cut end in a soil mix containing 1 part soil, 2 parts peat moss and 2 parts perlite. This is a very porous medium. The pot should be a few inches wider than the trunk. Place the trunk just deep enough so that it stays upright. <p>Keep the planting moist and out of direct sunlight until the fronds start to uncurl. IT COULD TAKE ABOUT A MONTH TO SPROUT ITS ROOTS. Must be kept away from any frost and if outdoors, away from strong winds. Indirect light or open shade will be best for a good frond color and will usually mean higher humidity. <p>Fertilize with a balanced liquid plant food, but never overdo the strength. Follow package instructions (during the growing period). When watering, be sure the trunk is drenched, as well as the root area.<p><b>PEACOCK JASMINE</b><br>Place in a sunny window, keeping the soil evenly moist. Avoid very high temperatures, but also keep at a minimum of 55°F. Feed every 3 weeks, except in late fall, when growth appears to have slowed. <p>Prune in summer to make plant compact. May be kept outdoors in summer. <p>When repotting, adequate soil drainage is important. Works well in a hanging container.<p><b>PINEAPPLE GUAVA</b><br>Place in a sunny window, keeping the soil evenly moist. Avoid very high temperatures, but also keep at a minimum of 55°F. Feed every 3 weeks, except in late fall, when growth appears to have slowed. <p>Prune in summer to make plant compact. May be kept outdoors in summer. <p>When repotting, adequate soil drainage is important. Works well in a hanging container.<p><b>ORCHIDS</b><br>You will nees a pot 2 in. larger than the pot it is in. Use ORCHID BARK or OSMUNDA FIBER for repotting. First clean and remove all of the old potting material. Trim off the old roots, leaving only new fleshy roots, which are thick firm roots. Fill about 1/4 of the pot with pieces of stone for drainage. Hold the orchid in the pot with the oldest part of the plant against one side of the pot to allow new growth to spread. Add bark to the pot and press firmly around the roots to a level near the top with some rhizomes about half buried. Use a pot with good drainage holes, as excess water must not accumulate at the roots. Water only when needed, when in doubt don't water. In the growing season water more and in the winter months water less. Using a fertilizer such as MAXICROP during the growing season is recommended every 10 to 2 weeks and once a month in the winter. The temperature should be between 50°F. and 70°F. during the day. Humidity for orchids can be achieved by making a plastic tray with gravel in it 1 in. thick and then fill with water to the top of the gravel or mist your orchids daily in the spring and summer. Mist less in the autumn and winter months. <p>The need for lighting varies greatly on the type and time of year. Most do best in the east window without any direct hot sun in the summer and more light in the cooler months.<p><b>BROMELIADS</b><BR>They absorb food and water through tiny sponge-like scales on their leaves and will bear colorful flowers. Bromeliads will tolerate variation in light exposure. Because they are flowering, most do better in bright light.<br>They do not need to be planted, just mist leaves thoroughly one to two times a week, or submerge in water overnight.<br>Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food once bi-monthly. Under less light, fertilize less frequently.<br>Most Bromeliads have cupped leaves that form a vase and hold water. It is important to keep this vase moist. Flush out old water with fresh water. .</div> <a href="#top"><img src="../../graphics/arrowupgreen.gif" width="15" height="15" alt="arrowupgreen.gif - 1kb" border="0"> <font size="1">Back to Top</a><br> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5"> <hr> </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#99CC66"> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif" bgcolor="#A37D32"> <div align="left"><a name="Vines"><b>Vines</b></a></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif"> <div align="left">Vining plants may be planted the same as other plants and will not need trellises the first year, but will need support the second year. Many of these will grasp the support themselves, while others should be attached with stretch ties or TWIST-EMS. For better flowering and leaf color, fertilize in the spring each year. As a rule a 2 to 4 ft. spacing of vines, but some vines do require more as they are a faster growing type. <p>VINE SPACING <br>Listed is a general spacing to fill a fence or wall in a 3-5 year period. Depending on the care of the plants and conditions given to the plant. <br>Tricolor Ampelopsis 4-6 ft..<br>Bittersweet 4-6 ft. <br>Clematis 2-4 ft..<br>Dutchman's Pipes 6-8 ft. <br>Scarlet Trumpet 6-8 ft. <br>Hops 4-6 ft. <br>Honeysuckle 4-6 ft. <br>Boston Ivy 4-6 ft. <br>Silver Lace Vine 6-8 ft. <br>Virginia Creeper 4-6 ft. <br>Wisteria 6-8 ft.<p><b>WOODROSE VINE</b><br>This fast growing vine should be free of any difficulty when growing in a warm, sunny location. It cannot take freezing or darkness. <p>Its watering requirements call for substantial amounts during its periods of high growth activity. Plants that grow beyond the limits of their space may be pruned back close to the origin of the stems. <p>Ideal as a hanging plant ot trained to climb on any structure. Seed pods (following flowers) may be dried for use in permanent flower arrangements.</div> <a href="#top"><img src="../../graphics/arrowupgreen.gif" width="15" height="15" alt="arrowupgreen.gif - 1kb" border="0"> <font size="1">Back to Top</a><br> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5"> <hr> </td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#99CC66"> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif" bgcolor="#A37D32"> <div align="left"><a name="Wildflowers"><b>Wildflowers</b></a></div></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5" align="center" valign="top" background="graphics/shim.gif"> <div align="left">Most wildflowers are very slow to develop and may not appear at all for at least a full season. Wildflowers like soil and location similar to a meadow or forest. The soil must be rich in humus and leaf mold and should be slightly acidic. Keep soil gently moist. A shaded area away from the beaten path is best since wildflowers no not like being disturbed. Control any weeds that may interfere with the rooting plants. Plant the roots 2-3 in. deep and about 6 in. apart. Since wildflower bulblets tend to dehydrate, they may be very small and undiscernible, but they should still grow. It is a good idea to mark the area where the plants are, so you do not disturb them with the next planting.</div> <a href="#top"><img src="../../graphics/arrowupgreen.gif" width="15" height="15" alt="arrowupgreen.gif - 1kb" border="0"> <font size="1">Back to Top</a><br> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5"> <hr> </td> </tr> </table> <p align="left"><b><i>Categories: <a href="#After Planting - Take Care">After Planting - Take Care</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Asparagus">Asparagus</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Azalea and Rhododendrons">Azalea and Rhododendrons</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Bamboo">Bamboo</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Bareroot Shrubs & Trees">Bareroot Shrubs & Trees</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Berries">Berries</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Biblical Plant Collection">Biblical Plant Collection</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Bulbs and Tubers">Bulbs and Tubers</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Clematis">Clematis</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Dogwoods">Dogwoods</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Evergreens">Evergreens</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Ferns">Ferns</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#FIG TREES">FIG TREES</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Fruit Trees">Fruit Trees</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Grafted Ornamentals">Grafted Ornamentals</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Grapes">Grapes</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Ground Covers">Ground Covers</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Hedges">Hedges</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Herbs">Herbs</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Hops">Hops</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Horseradish">Horseradish</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Houseplants and Non-Hardy Plants">Houseplants and Non-Hardy Plants</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Kiwi">Kiwi</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Lilacs">Lilacs</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Nut Tree Care">Nut Tree Care</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Ornamental Grasses">Ornamental Grasses</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Perennials">Perennials</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Potted Plant Care">Potted Plant Care</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Recipes">Recipes</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Rhubarb">Rhubarb</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Soil Preparation">Soil Preparation</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Sweating Your Plants">Sweating Your Plants</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Tree Spacing">Tree Spacing</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Tropical Plants">Tropical Plants</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Vines">Vines</a> </i>|<i> <a href="#Wildflowers">Wildflowers</a> </i>|<i> </i></b></p> </td> </tr> </table> <!-- MONTHLY PROMOTIONAL /////////////////////////////////////// --> <div align="center"> <a href="http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=vrksn*WopMs&offerid=51252.10000309&type=4&subid=0"> <IMG width="468" height="60" alt="10% off of $75 - expires 5/27/05" border="0" src="http://www.gardeners.com/linkshare/2005/summer/10off75/468x60_10off.jpg"></a> <IMG border="0" width="1" height="1" src="http://ad.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/show?id=vrksn*WopMs&bids=51252.10000309&type=4&subid=0"></div> <!-- END EDITABLE BODY ///////////////////////////////////////// --> <hr size="1" width="100%" color="#006633"> <table align="center" border="0"> <tr> <td width="100%" class="botnav"> <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/articles.shtml">Reading Room</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/shrubs.trees.shtml">Trees and Shrubs</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/flowers.shtml">Flowers</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/compost.shtml" >Composting</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/soil.shtml">Soil</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/nursery/index.php">Nursery</a> </td> </tr> <tr> <td width="100%" class="botnav"> <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/shop.shtml">Shopping</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/books.shtml">Books</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/tools.shtml">Tools</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/articles/news.shtml">News</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/internet_garden.shtml">Internet Gardening</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/links/index.html">Links</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/support.shtml">Support</a> </td> </tr> <tr> <td width="100%" class="botnav"> <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/vermicomposting.shtml">Vermicomposting</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/ipmgmt.shtml">Pest Management</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/howto.shtml">How To's</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/practical.shtml">Practical Advice</a> |  <a class="nav" href="http://www.gardensimply.com/children.shtml">Children</a> </td> </tr> </table> <hr size="1" width="100%" color="#006633"><br /> <table align="center"> <tr> <td width="100%" class="botnav"> <span style="font-size: 10px; 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