Trees and Shrubs in the May Garden

If you grow fruit trees, help prevent "June drops" by pruning now - most fruit trees will grow more fruit buds than they can effectively mature; the early fruit drops at the end of the spring.

If you want large fruits come fall, the trick is to thin the early fruits now - trim them about three to six inches apart for small fruits, like apricots and plums, and about six to eight inches apart for larger fruit like peaches and pear.

This can be difficult to do. (I have to do it when my husband is not looking or he will have a cow) But there are real, tangible benefits... larger and tastier fruits for one thing but more importantly long term, you do not take the risk of branches breaking because of too much fruit.

Even though the biggest job of pruning is done earlier in the year, when plants are dormant this "maintenance pruning" is necessary on the garden calendar in May. Remember to dispose of diseased limbs properly, no need to give anything a foot up.

Short List:
Remove tree wraps for summer growth.

Prune spring flowering shrubs after bloom to shape plant and encourage flowers next year.

Most evergreens have many roots near the soil surface. Avoid deep cultivation that might wound roots.

• When choosing a tree or shrub, it is important to consider the characteristics of all cultivars, keeping in mind the climate and cultural conditions of your site. Some cultivars may be resistant to diseases that are not a problem in your location, while others may show heat tolerance, pest resistance, soil tolerance, or other similar characteristics that better fit your situation. Choosing a plant appropriate for your location must be more than an aesthetic decision.
• Prune rhododendrons immediately after flowering. Old clusters should be snapped off when partly dry, but remove with care in order not to decrease or prevent bloom next year.
• When planting a new shade trees, consider whether it is messy or neat in appearance, weak- or strong-wooded, and long- or short-lived. Resist the temptation to plant a fast-growing, weak tree for quick shade.
• Some trees that are messy and weak-wooded include silver maple hybrid poplar, mimosa, weeping willow, black cherry, and Eastern cottonwood. Better choices are Chinese elm, Japanese zelkova, pin oak, red maple, river birch, tulip poplar, and willow oak.
• Rough or careless handling of balled-and-burlapped trees can break the soil ball, damaging or breaking off most of the roots, and result in the death of the tree. Never pick up a B&B tree by its trunk; instead, carry it by the root ball, being gentle when putting it down.
• If cotton burlap was used to wrap B&B tree roots, it does not need to be removed. Just untie and roll it down from the trunk until it does not stick above the soil line. If a synthetic material wrapped the roots, remove it completely if possible, or at least turn it back to expose the sides of the ball and cut it off or push it to the bottom of the hole. If the species of tree you are planting is one that grows a taproot, remove all the synthetic material or the root will not be able to grow properly.
• If an old tree shows signs of advanced rotting, remove it before it becomes a safety hazard.
• Red and silver maples, willows, poplars, and elms can clog septic lines with their roots. Plant these species well away from water lines and sewers.
• Poison ivy is dangerous all year round. You can get an irritation from the leaves, roots, berries, and even smoke from burning the vines. Learn to know the leaves so you can guard against it. If you think you may have come in contact with it, wash immediately with soap and water and remove any clothes that may have the oil on them. Prevention is the best medicine for this ailment.
  
  NEVER burn poison ivy! The resulting smoke can cause severe lung damage if inhaled, it can even kill someone. If you ever do burn out an area of brush, stay out of the smoke.
• When planting shrubs on a steep slope, be sure to mulch or use an erosion control netting if grasses or ground covers are not already present. Digging planting holes and watering the new plants will result in erosion problems on bare soil.
• Plant ground covers under shade trees that don't allow enough sunlight to sustain grass. Periwinkle, English ivy, and liriope are a few ground cover plants that grow well in shade.
• If you are building a home on a wooded lot, save young, vigorous trees. They will adapt to changes in their environment better than older trees. Trees that once grew in shade and are suddenly exposed to increased sunlight, wider temperature fluctuations, and drying winds may not survive.
• Regularly water newly planted trees and shrubs during the first year or two after planting to help establish a good root system. They need at least 1 inch of water each week. It is better to water deeply once a week than to water lightly every day; the former practice encourages deep, drought-resistant roots while the latter practice encourages surface roots that may suffer during dry spells. Mulch to conserve moisture and control weeds.
• Prune out winter-killed wood on trees and shrubs by cutting back to green wood after new growth begins.

 

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