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Growing From Seeds Indoors
You will need:
- Seeds
- seed trays or plant pots, or cellular trays
- seed compost
- piece of timber to fit seed tray or pot to level and compress compost
- scrap of paper; old colander or compost sieve
- piece of glass, clear plastic or roll of Cling film
- plant label
- waterproof pen
- small dibber
- cellular tray or small pots
- cold frame or small polytunnel for hardening off seedlings
STEP ONE
Use handfuls of compost to fill your seed tray or pot with compost.
Level it off with the piece of wood. Leave a gap of 1cm below the rim.
Shake some seeds on to the folded scrap of paper or the palm of your hand.
Use your fingers to control the flow of the seeds and scatter them thinly
and evenly over the surface of the compost.
STEP TWO
Use a small compost sieve or old colander to shake a covering of compost
over the seeds. Make this about the same thickness as your seeds. Use a
watering can with a fine rose attached and water the seeds, taking care
not to dislodge them. Label your seeds with the name and date of sowing.
STEP THREE
Cover your seed tray with a piece of glass, clear plastic or clingfilm to
keep the compost moist and maintain humidity around the seedlings.
Keep this clear of the compost surface. Place the seed tray on a windowsill,
or in a greenhouse. If it is to sit in direct sunlight, add a piece of fine
netting to shade the tray. Take coverings off as soon as your seeds germinate.
STEP FOUR
Once your seedlings begin to grow, they'll need to be transplanted into larger,
deeper containers. You do this so that they will not get weak from overcrowding.
Use small pots no more than 6cm in diameter, or cellular plastic trays for
individual seedlings. Larger pots can be used to grow on several small
plants in each.
STEP FIVE
Fill the new growing container with a thicker type of compost, known as
loam-based. Your seedlings should have two leaves making them large enough to
handle. Gently tap the seed tray or pot on a hard surface to loosen the
compost and help you to remove seedlings. Handle your seedlings by their
leaves to avoid damaging their root systems.
You can use an old knife or a special tool known as a
widger
to separate them and keep as much compost around their roots as you can.
STEP SIX
Push a small
dibber
or old biro into a cell of compost to make a small planting hole. Gently
transplant each seedling into place. Firm the compost around each with the
dibber or your fingers. Water the seedlings using the rose attachment on your
can. Special
propagators
have clear plastic domed lids which help to increase the humidity around your
young seedlings. If you have one, place it over the tray, making sure that it
does not touch the leaves. Remove after a few days and grow plants on, watering
them at intervals to make sure that the compost does not dry out.
STEP SEVEN
You need to introduce your young plants to the conditions they'll find
outdoors. They need to be acclimatized gradually. This will
harden
them and wean them off the heat and protection they've been used to indoors.
About 6 weeks before the plants will be planted in their final spots, move
them to a cooler protected place. Usually this is a closed
cold frame,
and ventilation is increased until the lid can be removed completely. Other things
that work as well are
cloches
or small
polytunnels.
Cloches can be lifted gradually,
and the sides of polytunnels can be rolled up. If you have a sheltered spot
at the base of a south- or west-facing wall, fence or building, use this.
Protect small plants at night with plastic or fleece held in place over them
by temporary wooden or bamboo frameworks. Your young plants should receive
maximum light during the day, and be well ventilated in order to thrive and
grow. And, you'll have to remember to water them.
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